THR1FT SIZE GUIDE
XXS, XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL, XXXL
0 (XS), 1 (S), 2 (M), 3 (L), 4 (XL)
Chest based sizing: Blazers, outwear, etc.
The arm length is measured differently in this type of garment. It is measured from the center (back of) of the collar, down the outseam of the arm to the end of the cuff. This is more common in mass manufacturing of US shirting, or when the shirt is being altered by a tailor. This may not be an issue for us. The seller and buyer bears the responsibility to communicate the sizing, measurements, and fit of the garment.
XXS, XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL, XXXL
(general rule, sizing can vary between French and Italian manufacturing)
AccessoriesItems without sizes will be denoted as OS, one size.
Bags regardless of size will be denoted as OS. It is the seller/buyer responsibility to communicate HxWxL measurements.
Vintage versus current sizing
We have an unspoken notion that sizing is universal, this is not true. We can’t agree on a medium being a medium. Whether a marketing strategy, designer intentions, or the physical change over time to people, generalized sizing is not embraced. Vintage sizes differ from the current sizing grid. Buying vintage requires different rules. Most vintage runs smaller than new production. Consumers need to be aware and look for measurements to ensure the desired fit.
Size Related Descriptors
Oversized:A descriptor that focuses on overall intended fit of a garment. This garment is skewed in all directions. Larger in aspect of the fit block with the sometimes exception of the neck/head opening or waist.
Boxy:This term is generally used when describing a top. Usually referring to the body. This garment does not have a waistline. Coming straight down from the underarm to the waist.
Tailored/fitted:Garments described in this manner are fitted to the body. They follow the shape of the wearer. This can be achieved through tailoring or sizing down.
Cropped:Playing with the overall length of a garment. Tops, hoodies, outerwear, and pants can all be in cropped versions. Cropping can be achieved in the simple version of cutting the garment or having a garment altered.
Elongated:This describes the overall length of a garment. Generally a descriptor used for the body of tops. Additionally it can be used to describe the length of the leg of a trouser.
Measuring yourself and the garment
Understanding your body and its proportions are one of the most underrated keys to style. This leads to an intended fit, drape, and the ability to dress for your morphology. Below are basics of body measurements. This is to be used as a guideline. We should develop our own version of these diagrams.
The overall body:As you can see, the raw type of measurement does not really differ from men to women. Obviously women and men are built differently, however when taking measurements we are looking for some universality. The forms below show people of, in heavy quotes, “ideal” proportions. This by no means is shaming of anyone's body shape. We need to be cognitive of how we create these body diagrams. As far as the many nuanced subtleties of humans. People's body morphology will vary based on size, which will affect some of the positions the measurement is taken from. This along with posture can affect the overall measurement.
Shoulders/point to point:This is measured from the edge of the top of the shoulder to the same point on the opposing shoulder. This is the simpler way. Sometimes, more so in suiting, the measurement is from the top of the shoulder, up across the trapezoid to the base of the neck, then following the line to the next trapezoid down to the edge of the shoulder. More of an arc following the upper line of the shoulders versus straight across.
Bust:The bust or more commonly referred to as the chest measurement, is generally taken around the armpit. For women, this is taken at the largest part of the bust which is generally lower than the armpit.
Waist:The waist measurement is an often mismeasured part of the body. It is not where your pants sit. It is the part of your torso between your bust and hips. Depending on your shape, this can be smaller than bust and hips, or larger than those two measurements.
Hips:Your hip measurement is measured at the widest part of your hips. This needs to include your seat.
Leg inseam: This measurement is from your crotch to your ankle/top of your foot. This is an absolute measurement. This measurement does not always directly correlate to the same measurement of a trouser. On a trouser, you need to consider the rise of the pant, along with your intended style. Do you want a cropped fit, a full break, a stacked leg…All of these will lead to a different measurement on the garment, versus, what your true measurement is. The following measurements are not represented in the above diagram, however should be considered crucial in understanding how a potential garment will fit.
Arm inseam and outseam:Your arm inseam is measured from your armpit along the inner portion of your arm to your wrist. Your outseam measurement comes from the top of your shoulder, down along the exterior of your arm to your wrist. The outseam will be longer than your inseam.
Torso length:This is measured from where your trapezoid meets your neck, down to where the small of your back meets the seat. This is the raw torso measurement of a person. You can have a front torso measurement as well. This is generally done to accommodate a bust line. The placement of the measurement is done from the same point in the shoulders, down the front of the torso to the top of your hip bone.
Neck:The neck measurement is the full circumference at the widest point of the base. This is more for formal shirting, than casual clothing. The following measurements are not necessarily needed in where Thr1ft is going in the MVP stage, however may be beneficial in the long run.
Leg outseam:This measurement is from the top of your hip bone to the ankle. Generally not used unless constructing a custom garment.
Thigh:This measurement is taken as a full circumference around your thigh muscle. This is usually measured inline with the base of your crotch. Some people have a more developed quad and need to measure this at the widest part of this muscle. Some garments may choose to be very fitted along the legs, so this may come into play.
Calf:This measurement is for the circumference of your calf. It is measured as a full circumference measurement and taken at the widest portion of the muscle. Generally not needed unless constructing custom trousers, or if the individual has overdeveloped calves. This could be a crucial measurement when looking for a skinny fitting trouser with a textile that has little to no stretch.
Bicep/forearm:These individual measurements are full circumference measurements at the widest part of these muscles. Generally not needed unless the intended wearer has overdeveloped muscles. Some garments may choose to be very fitted along the arms, so this may come into play.
Wrist:This is a full circumference measurement at the widest point of your wrist. This is more important when it comes to accessories such as bracelets and watches.
Overall garment measurements follow the same placement as the raw measurement on the body. There are some measurements that are more easily taken with the garment on the wearer, however most of the measurements are taken off body, and done on a flat surface. In addition, this can be measured in two ways, a full or half (flat) measurement. Full measurement is the total circumference of the intended area. Half or flat is just one side, usually the front of a garment. Double to get the full circumference.
Tailor/dress shirt:This garment has more measurements than most due to generalized intention of the garment being well fitted.
Neck:The neck of the garment is measured from the center of the top button along the interior collar of the shirt to the center of the buttonhole. This should be performed with the garment laid on a flat surface.
Chest/bust:This is measured from pit to pit, or across the widest part of the bust line. This more easily performed off body on a flat surface. Often given as a half measurement.
Waist:The waist is measured at the slimmest part of the garment in between the bust and hips. This is achieved more easily as a flat measurement. Often given as a half measurement.
Hip:In a tailored shirt, this measurement is where the shirt falls over your hips. This allows for the garment to fall cleanly and ease of movements. This is measured at the widest part of the shirting along the hip line. Generally done off body as a flat measurement. Often given as a half measurement.
Arm length:The measurement of the arm is very different on a tailored shirt. This measurement is taken from the center of the shoulders just below the collar, and runs down over the shoulder along the outseam of the arm to the wrist. This is more easily measured on body.
Length:The length or sometimes called overall length is measured from the spot where the seam from the top of the shoulder meets the neck opening, straight down the garment to the bottom hemline. This will vary slightly from mens to womens clothes. More so, the front length to the back length to accommodate the bust. This is more often done as a flat measurement.
Suit jacket/Blazer: The blazer is a complex garment with numerous amounts of measurements, geometry, and tailoring skills to construct. We are only going to focus on a few measurements that lead to a generalized fit. To fine tune the fit; that will need a formal fitting with the wearer and a tailor.
Bust, Waist, Hips/Hemline, Length, and Shoulders: These all follow the same measuring guidelines previously outlined above. The only change here is the overall length of the garment. This is more easily done on body. This also may change the overall fit and length based on the wear’s posture.
Arms:There are two key measurements when looking at a blazer. The inseam and outseam need to be shown. The difference shows the size of the arm hole opening. They are measured in the same manner as outlined previously. Depending on how fitted the jacket is, or how defined the bicep of the wear is, this may need to be measured to ensure fit.
Lapel:Not shown in this diagram, however crucial to the aesthetics of the garment, it is the width of the lapel. This is measured from the widest point of the notch/peak/shawl straight across to the fold.
Trouser/Pant/Shorts: The trouser is a complex network of measurements that interplay with each other to result in the best possible fitting pant. We are going to focus on the most crucial measurements to ensure a good fit and smooth sale.
Waist, Hip, and Inseam:We have gone over previously. Please refer to above mentioned measuring guidelines. Generally the waist and hips are halved measurements. All easier to measure on a flat surface.
Outseam:This is generally referred to as outseam or overall pant length. This is measured from the top of the pant including the waistband down the outseam to the leg opening at the bottom. This is generally done as a flat measurement.
Rise:This is a measurement taken from the crotch to the top of the waistband. The garment needs to be folded in half lengthwise with the front of the crotch exposed and measured flat. The measurement needs to follow the arc of the rise.
Hem width/Leg opening:This is a flat measure to show the opening for the leg. This also indicates the taper of the pant leg. Measure flat from edge to edge at the opening of the leg. Generally given as a halved measurement.
Thigh and Knee:These measurements are generally not conveyed in a sale unless the wearer has overly developed quad muscles.
T-shirt/Tshirt/Tee Shirt:The tee is a core essential in anyone’s closet. This garment is a workhorse of style. We will focus on a few key measurements, most we have gone over already.
Shoulders, Chest/Bust, Waist, Hips, Arm inseam/outseam, and Overall length:All of these measurements are the same as previously outlined and are more easily measured laying flat.
Sleeve opening:The sleeve opening is measured from edge to edge laying flat at the opening of the sleeve. This is important in a tee since this generally lands across the bicep.
Neck opening:This measurement is measured straight across the opening from edge to edge of the opening. Neck drop is generally not that important in the fitting of a tee unless a deeper V or a higher tight fitting neckline.
Dresses:The dress varies so greatly in stylized intentions, that it is harder to attach a single set of the measurements to provide a smooth sale and ensure a good fit. The garment needs to be assessed and take the measurements that best represent fit and drape points.
Collar, Neck opening, Shoulders, Chest/Bust, Waist, Hips, Arms, Length, and openings:All of these measurements have been previously outlined. Here are a few measurements to consider depending on the style of the dress that are not shown on this diagram.
Strap length:The length of the straps are measured from the bust line to the top of the shoulders. This is more easily achieved by measuring flat.
Slit: This measurement is focused on the overall length of the slit opening. This is measured laying flat from the top of the slit, to the end of the hemline.
Neck drop:This focuses on the opening of the neckline. This is a flat measurement that starts at the top back of the neck to the end of the opening.
Hemline/dress opening:This refers to the bottom hemline opening. This is a flat measurement that goes straight across from edge to edge. It is important to ensure the fabric of the opening is splayed open correctly, and you follow the hemline of the garment. Different styles/cuts of a dress can have an arced hemline.
Skirt:The skirt is a cross between a trouser and dress set of measurements. The relevant measurements vary on the design values of the garment.
Waist, Hips, Length, Hemline opening, and Slit: All of these